![]() ![]() I don't recall why a 4-prong tool was mentioned. The only 'special' tool for me was a big enough wrench for the fork cap (50+mm's), but regret not having a better way to grip the piston rod to remove the valve body. I expect with that technique I don't need the (pretty useless) special tools 020889Y. Reading the above, I consider to first drain the oil, assemble the fork and use and impact driver to release the bolt, before moving on to the internal. I have an Andreani piston kit coming my way for my 2014 Tuono V4 with the fork that has the compression in 1 leg and rebound in the other. Now to just get the valve removed from the bottom of the damper rod. (luckily it was avoided, this would have required a 3rd or maybe 4th hand) If this failed, the next step was to add a torque restraint to castellated cap of the cartridge tube. The tension would preload the circlip retaining the bottom fitting, providing enough inertia reaction. Then with the fork inverted and my feet restraining the fork cap pulling up with one hand to apply tension to the stack and pulsing an impact drill. This was done by draining the oil applying heat and getting the bolt slightly loose and reattaching the fork cap on the damper rod. I did have success removing the 2nd fork's bolt with minimum fuss. hmm, not impressed, they did update it by removing the suspension section altogether! So I downloaded the 2017 manual, thinking they would have updated this section. I have the same shop manual, and the same fork internals. Manual shows only black piece, but I have the two pieces. I didn't have the white spring glide installed, and also their is a metal compression tube, and a black plastic compression tube. the 2016 shop manual appears to maybe show older style Sachs fork, because my internals don't look 100% like in the pics. Race Tech's warning is valid, don't disassemble it.Īs far as having trouble removing the cartridge and needing a special tool, that is not the case in my experience.Īnd one more thing. I've disassembled them before, but the threads on the aluminum fork bottom will be damaged because of the set screw digging into the threads on the steel tube. The lower fork tube is threaded onto the fork bottom with Loctite, the set screw is a safety measure to prevent an accident. Anybody ever do this, or have it done? Thanks!! Customer is responsible for all replacement costs." That makes me nervous! Sounds like threaded on? I may just go with new higher spec lower tubes, but either way, the fork bottoms need to come off. ![]() Are these threaded on or pressed on? From RaceTech site."In some cases the fork bottom seizes to the fork tube and strips when being removed. What I am concerned with is removing the fork bottoms on the lower tubes. I've done plenty of shock swaps, and swapped in a few NIX kits on my BMW, so not concerned with that. While waiting for my Matris fork kit and rear shock to arrive, thinking about getting the fork lower tubes coated by RaceTech, (DLC2 coated).
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